Sikkim Sojourn

By

Koko Singh

April is probably the best time to visit one of our smallest, but possibly most beautiful state Sikkim. Before you skip to another page thinking its too far and not for you, hold it and read on for a few moments. No, the distance didnt shrink its around 1500 km from Delhi but costs certainly did and connectivity is vastly improved.

With check fares helping economise, you can fly into Kolkata by a morning flight and connect to the base for Sikkim- Siliguri on the same day. For rail travellers, there are overnight trains from Kolkata to Siliguri (New Jalpaiguri station). From here it is a 3-4 hour drive in a hired car or the shared jeep service that plies regularly.

Depending on the kind of holiday youre planning for yourself, you could choose to stay in either the lively but somewhat crowded capital Gangtok or in the quiet verdant environs of Rumtek, just 23 km from the action at Gangtok, making day trips to the city very do-able.

The drive up from Siliguri along the powerful gushing Teesta River (which has great rafting up to May!), and through rich forests is no simple commute its the beginning of a wonderful holiday and you will find it difficult to resist a coffee break at one of the many scenic spots en route.

Just 12 km short of Gangtok is a road to the left leading to Rumtek and its spectacular monastery the seat of the Gyalwa Karmapa, the head of the Kagyupa sect of Tibetan Buddhism. This magnificent three-storied building is the largest monastery in Sikkim and although completed as recently as 1966, it is built in the traditional Tibetan style. The monastery has a large courtyard and a vibrantly painted entrance depicting the Four Great Kings of the cardinal directions. On the ground floor is the elaborate prayer hall dominated by a 3m tall gold plated statue of Lord Buddha and hundreds of miniature Boddhisattavas (Buddhas in waiting). The rotating paper prayer wheels and softly glowing butter lamps add to the aura of tranquility here. The adjacent building houses an exquisite image of Tara that you should definitely see. Behind the prayer hall is the Great Golden Reliquary Stupa in which the bones and ashes of the 16th Karmapa are interred. If you happen to be here during a prayer service, do sit in as the peaceful atmosphere is enhanced by deep resonating chants and rhythmic beating of drums a spiritually moving experience.

A must for nature lovers is a visit to the Ipecac Gardens. Spread over six acres, it carries an amazing variety of orchid species as well as medicinal plants. A large number of the butterflies Sikkim is famed for can be seen here, adding to the riot of colours if you are lucky you might spot one called Golden Birdwing whose existence is as endangered as that of the tiger!

Gangtok (high hill), lies at a comfortable 5500 ft and overlooks rich emerald-hued terraces and offers amazing views of the Kanchendzonga range. Although too built up to fit the image of a picturesque hill station, there are interesting places to visit here. As a visitor, one of the first things you notice (with envy!), is the overall cleanliness, lack of litter, orderly roads and a strong sense of civic awareness. The people are unfailingly courteous and helpful so moving around is no problem at all.

For a quick glimpse of the Buddhist tradition, you can stop at the Research Institute of Tibetology that houses an impressive collection of ancient manuscripts, tangkhas, coins and other artifacts. Set in a charming grove of oak and birch, this abuts the Chogyal Palden Thondup Namgyal memorial park which is a sylvan oasis in the city and great for a quiet walk. Also in the vicinity about 500m uphill is the Do-Drul (Phurba) Chorten, an impressive white stupa with a gilded apex, surrounded by two smaller chortens and 108 prayer wheels with the mystic mantra Om Mane Padme Hum (Hail Jewel in the Lotus).

Climbing up to the Ridge area you must stop at the permanent flower show with its fantastic array of Sikkims exotic flora and also walk through the beautiful Japanese-style public garden.

The two-hundred year old Enchey Gompa is certainly worth a visit. It was built on a site chosen by a tantrik monk who is supposed to have harnessed his mystic power to fly or at least to levitate! The prayer hall is resplendent with rich wall hangings, frescoes and there are magnificent images of Lord Buddha flanked by Guru Padmasambhava and Avalokiteswara. For those keen on wildlife, a visit to the local zoo is a must; the animals are housed in open enclosures in relatively natural surroundings and with its expanse and winding wooded pathways, this is a great place for an outing. Opposite its entrance is a charming little temple, Ganesh Tok, which boasts brilliant views of the snow peaks. Other great spots that offer excellent views of the mighty Kanchendzonga and adjoining peaks, particularly at sunrise, are the lofty modern temple of Hanuman Tok (7200ft) and Tashiding View Point.

There are numerous shops selling local artifacts but the Central Cottage Emporium has a wide selection. For local flavour, definitely stop by at Lal Bazaar, particularly if its the Haat (market day) on Sunday!

And Gangtok is just the tip of the ice berg it is the base of day excursions to the beautiful high altitude lakes Tsomgo and Menmecho and the Nathu La pass, which at 14,400 ft serves as our border with China.

Travel tips

Gompas

Gompas (solitary place), were initially built in remote places so monks could isolate themselves to meditate and pray a kind of sophistication of the caves they used to retreat to during Buddhas time. With growing patronage, these gompas developed into elaborate edifices that also doubled as teaching centers.

Accommodation

Gangtok (STD code 03592).
Top End: Norkhill
( Ph: 205637); Website: www.elginhotels.com
Chumbi Residency
(Ph: 226618), E-mail: slg_chumbi@sancharnet.in
Tashi Delek (Ph: 2024156), Website: www.tashidelek.com
Economy: Norbhugang (Ph:202237)
New Castle (Ph: 281707)
Rumtek (STD code 03592)
Top End: Shambala
(Ph: 252440)
Martam (Ph: 203314)
Teen Talay (Ph: 252256);
Sungay (Ph: 252221)

Eatingout

In Gangtok, the best momos are at Hotel Tibet; Indian food or a traditional Sikkimese meal at Tashi Delek; music and multi-cuisine at House of Bamboo, Baker's Café for pizzas and lively action, Porky's (Deorali) for good sizzlers.

Travel Agents

Hammock Leisure
Holiday (Ph: (080) 25351444);
Website: www.hammockholidays.com
Heat Travels (Ph: (0353) 2504631);
E-mail: heat@sancharnet.in
Marco Polo (Ph: 03592-204116);
Website: www.worldmarcopolo.com

Koko Singh is the author of a series of travel books titled Driving Holidays in the Himalayas, covering Ladakh, Zanskar, Sikkim and Uttaranchal

Content Source:

This article originally appeared in The Sunday Express.

The information in this article was accurate at the time it was published, but we suggest you confirm all details and prices as these can change at any time.