Blow Hot, Cold

By

Koko Singh

The glacier at Parkachik

With the monsoon clouds looming over us, a hill holiday at this time can turn out to be a misty but somewhat damp experience. So if you are in the mood for a bit of adventure, why not strike out towards the spectacular Suru region and the remote and starkly beautiful Zanskar valley that lies in a rain shadow. Magnificent mountain desert landscape awaits you there with clear sunny days and a comfortable ambient temperature of 25*C. Add to this a large dose of warm hospitality, charming and extremely friendly people, comfortable but basic places to stay and an intriguing glimpse of Buddhist culture and you have the recipe for a great holiday.

Your journey begins in Srinagar, the capital of Jammu & Kashmir. Once out of Srinagar, past Ganderbal, youll find yourself on a stunning and exhilarating drive with the gurgling Sind River flowing alongside, banked by lush paddy fields that turn to yellow-gold, come September. Rolling past pine and deodar forests and bubbling streams, the generous bounty of nature will tempt you to halt for a cuppa, just to soak it all in.

At an altitude of 9000ft/2740m, the gentle meadows of Sonamarg are only 84 km away from Srinagar. You can contemplate walking up a glacier the Thajiwas Glacier looms over Sonamarg and is very accessible. The mahaseer and trout in the river are sure bait for anglers and there is something for trekking enthusiasts you can hike up to the mountain lakes of Vishanasar, Krishasar and Gangabal from here and the route to Amarnath Cave is little ahead of Sonamarg. If youre scientifically inclined, visit the colony of Baltis at Nilagrad and figure out why the medicinal stream that flows into the Sind River is red.

Your drive takes you over the famous Zoji La pass at 11,578ft and through the Drass valley en route to Kargil, which is the district headquarters. The army controls the one-way convoy at Zoji La pass, and it is advisable to check the timings before you start from Sonamarg. Be prepared for some dramatic ascents, serpentine twists and turns, physically challenging roads and of course security checks, which include a dog squad! But know that youll be on a historical pathway, crossed by ancient traders and legendary explorers

Onward to Drass (10,600ft), the dust settles and gives way to craggy mountains and barren landscapes stretching upwards. Youll find yourself above the tree line, seemingly within touching distance from the lofty peaks, with your feet planted amidst a profusion of wild flowers, fed by the melting June snows. A small township but an important old trade route, Drass is the second coldest inhabited place in the world, after Siberia. Check out the 7th century rock sculptures of Maitreya, Pulmapani and Chotpei, 3km away and the war memorial dedicated to the brave who lost their lives in the Kargil war. You can spot the infamous Tiger Hill from here.

Kargil (8870 ft) is a good transit point if you want to explore Zanskar or Ladakh. Nestled in the fertile valley formed by the confluence of the Suru River and its tributary the Wakha-chu, Kargil produces a rich crop of barley, wheat, peas, and apricots, apples and mulberry in abundance. This is the last point to pick up essentials for your onward journey to the Suru valley and tank up on fuel.

However, if you have done good time and still have the energy to drive another two hours, you can break journey at the more serene and scenic villages of Purtikchey or Panikhar. For those travelling to Rangdum or Padum, this is the place to acclimatise for a couple of days. Accommodation is basic but the valley is spectacular. The Himalayan peaks of Nun and Kun and several glaciers can be seen and admired from here. The mostly Muslim population of Tibetan-Dard descent number around 40,000. En route you can stop at Trespone (25km from Kargil,) famous for its hilltop Imambara (mosque), which is an architectural amalgamation of Muslim-Tibetan cultures. See tradition kept alive in the making of Scythian bows with slivers of Ibex horn.

The next diversion lies at Sanku, just 17 km ahead. Remember triple seven and youll get some facts right approximately 7km away at Kartse Khar, you will be rewarded with the sight of a 7ft tall rock carving of Maitreya (the Future Buddha), that dates back to the 7th century. To get there, you cross the river and take the road leading to Bartu and Farsod on the opposite bank for 5km and then at a small fork, head down to Kartse Khar and the Future Buddha a bit of hard work, but then whats a holiday without a little adventure?

Sanku is also a favourite haunt for picnickers from Kargil and local pilgrims visiting the shrine of Syed Mir Hashim, a scholar and saint from this region. The Tourist Bungalow at Purtikchey is 13km further and this is where you get your first darshan of the magnificent Nun and Kun peaks a perfect place to take a break and soak in glorious views as you catch your breath and acclimatise. Panikhar, 12km away is also convenient if you have bookings there. The meditative calm of the perennially snow capped peaks rejuvenate you enough to pack a picnic hamper and drive 31km to view the dramatic Gunri Glacier, which descends from the saddle between Nun and Kun, almost up to the road. Imagine that!

Where to stay

Kargil

JKTDC Tourist Bungalow: There are two, the upper and lower Tourist Bungalows with the former being better located. Bookings can be made through JKTDC. u Hotel DZojila: Located 1.5 km out of town on the road to Sanku. Rooms are comfortable and the food good. The quality of Kashmiri/Indian cuisine in Kargil is surprisingly good. Two restaurants, KK Munch and Zojila, opposite the State Bank of India, deserve a mention.

Purtikchey / Panikhar

JKTDC has 2 and 4-room rest houses in these two places. The locations are superb but food very basic and you will have to carry supplemental rations. u Beyond Kargil, availability of food items that you take for granted is negligible. So carry some ready to eat meals, juices and bottled water. Liquor is also not readily available, except for Old Monk and a variety of beers.

How to go

There are daily flights to Srinagar from Delhi. Alternatively, you can take an overnight train to Jammu from where it is a full days drive. You also have the option of driving all the way if you want the pleasure of steering yourself on this journey.

Delhi Ibex Expeditions: G-66, East of Kailash, New Delhi-110065. Tel: 011-26912641; email:ibex@nde.vsnl.net.in

Leh Explore Himalayas: Tel: 01982-252727, 252403; Mob: 094-191-78416; email: explorehimalayas@vsnl.com

Bangalore Hammock Leisure Holiday Pvt. Ltd: 314/1, Vijay Kiran, 7th Cross Domlur Layout, Bangalore. Tel: 080-25351877; email: hammock@vsnl.net